How to fly to New York in style (and why The Devonshire is overrated)
Flying to New York to visit the Evolv Collection Restaurants last week, I was reminded that the British Airways loyalty scheme conditions had changed. For reference, here are my own (slightly tongue in cheek) rules for any self-respecting ‘City Guy’ visiting Terminal Five:
1. Arrive at the airport in a cab and ask for the ‘far entrance’ – your cabby now knows you are going to be flying first or club. A satisfying Humble Brag.
2. Fast track with hand luggage only, wearing stealth leisure wear, including sliders with socks (like you are fresh off a football field). No belt to take off, no laces to tie. Ensure your two phones (minimum) and laptop are in a separate tray to demonstrate your importance to your fellow fast-trackers and the Heathrow security detail.
3. Next, head to Harrods and buy something to wear, not because you need it but for convenience. I opted to buy a pair of white jeans and some socklets; you can never have too many of either.
4. Now it’s time for the South lounge (never the North – only people in the know, know about the South lounge), closing your eyes as you walk past the Concord Gold lounge, muttering “one day, one day” as you head upstairs.
5. Regardless of the time of day, sit near the secret door to the back kitchen. This is where the ‘on request only’ champagne is kept. Ask politely for said champagne; let the Club Europe people drink Prosecco, blissfully ignorant of the secret door.
6. Inhale a fortifying sausage sandwich followed by some vitamin enriched melon. You have a flight to get through. Do not forget your morning ablutions; take advantage of the spacious Elemis washroom and copious products (it is always best to avoid the public airplane loos if possible).
7. Head as late as possible to the gate. A champion needs an adrenaline fix and the uncertainty of making a flight provides this. Walk faster than an Olympian with a little fear spurring you on. Of course, you know deep down that they will keep the gate open for you; you are a king, a silver card holder aiming for gold. Rush through the gate waving thanks, not missing a beat as you continue a very important phone call.
8. When entering the plane, turn left (even if club is on the right). You always turn left, it’s just natural. A glass of champagne will be waiting….
New York strip steaks
First stop on my strip steak safari was Queensyard; one of my two Evolve Collection restaurants in the Big Apple. Prior to the main event, the steak tartar was excellent, the ‘Bluebird prawn cocktail’ divinely smoky and the grilled octopus with truffled kimchi a taste sensation. The 12 ounce sirloin, grilled over wood, was a piece of art, memorable for its tenderness and flavour and enhanced even further with a perfect peppercorn sauce. If you are shopping in NYC, you will naturally end up in Hudson Yards, so pop into Queensyard for great food and drink plus amazing views of the river.
Next on the list was my friend Will Beckett’s Hawksmoor. Nowadays, the British brand feels more suited to America than the UK, with a menu that has evolved to fulfil local demands. You can now find delicious starters such as Carolina spiced pork belly and fried Louisiana shrimp. The steaks are also exclusively US breed, but do retain the Hawksmoor signature charcoal char, ageing and prolonged resting. My sirloin once again delivered; a great steak, perhaps a little too heavy for my personal taste but the Americans must love it. I think they would also appreciate a more extensive and American wine list to mirror the menu. Still, I managed to find a delicious Santa Rita Hills Syrah ($25 a glass).
Just over the road from Hawksmoor is New York’s most successful new steakhouse, La Tête d’Or by Daniel Boulud. It’s a gloriously glamorous venue with decadent decor. Packed to the rafters, the atmosphere was every restaurateurs’ dream. I met Daniel a few months ago at the opening of another of his restaurants – he has an amazing aura and golden touch in this city. La Tête d’Or combines Boulud’s Lyon heritage with Michelin flair with all the touches and tradition of an iconic New York steakhouse. To begin, I feasted on a ‘plateau’ of seafood; razor clams, blue shrimp, clams and lobster; truly divine. My final steak in 36 hours was also outstanding. Like Queensyard, cooked over wood, a beautiful prime Black Angus strip, worth your BA flight fare!
THE DEVONSHIRE
On the flight back from New York, full of beef, I recalled my last visit to what has become a bit of a pub parody: The Devonshire. Famous for its steak and stout, it’s filled with badly dressed, overweight tourists (some, indeed, from New York), all of whom are arriving a year too late to the most over-hyped of parties. Admittedly the Guinness is good; on a par with nearby The Toucan and The George.
However, the dining room is horribly hot, badly ventilated and serves comparatively mediocre meat. If you are seeking superb steak in Piccadilly, head up the road to Goodman. Or, even better, try Sartoria (another of mine) for its heavenly Bistecca di Fiorentina.
Four OpenTable picks for the perfect breakfast in London
1. Dovetale
Two Michelin-starred chef Tom Sellers heads up Dovetale in Mayfair, where you can treat yourself to one of the best breakfasts in the city. Try the excellent full English or keep it real with the perfect eggs Benedict. • BOOK HERE
2. the wolseley
Rock up from 7am at The Wolseley for one of the capital’s most celebrated breakfasts, featuring a huge menu packed with everything from grilled kipper to bubble and squeak. Filled with celebs and business moguls, you’ll be in good company. • BOOK HERE
3. grind
As the name suggests, Grind is the perfect place to start the day with a nice, fresh coffee. There’s great food on offer too, with house crumpets topped with poached eggs or smashed avocado both OpenTable favourites. • BOOK HERE
4. Smiths Bar & Grill
Should you find yourself at Paddington in the morning, book a table at Smith’s, where you’ll be amazed by the divine croque monsieur and irresistible crab pancakes. There’s also a great selection of fresh pastries, making this a brilliant breakfast option. • BOOK HERE
Whatever the occasion, find your perfect restaurant on OpenTable. Explore real-time availability across London, and filter your results by cuisine, location, and rating. Book today.