Supporting the Underdog this Christmas
If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any f****** merlot!”. It was the line, uttered by Paul Giamatti in the film ‘Sideways’, that triggered a two per cent drop in Merlot sales in the USA and relegated the grape to underdog status for years to come. It is still trying to claw its way back to its pre-Sideways heights even now. Consumers can be fickle beasts, fashions change, people are swayed by films and famous faces – but it is these untrendy wines, these forgotten or ignored grapes, that can often surprise and delight us the most.
I recently dined at Cornus and was recommended the Mixtura by Independent Wines, a cross-country blend of Albarino grapes from both Spain and Portugal, which is then oaked to taste bizarrely similar to a premium Chablis. Cornus is a restaurant on everyone’s lips right now, as much for the prices as the incredible food. As I write this, I take a small reverential pause to remember my starter of langoustine, gnocchi and truffle purée which was so melt in the mouth divine it actually seemed worth every one of the £56 it cost. The place thrummed with wealthy foodies tucking into wild turbot, roasted pigeon and saddle of Surrey Hills fallow deer with all the gusto such cooking deserves, and I had opened the list expecting the usual over-priced Burgundy and Bordeaux. They were there, of course, but what struck me was the host of unusual and unknown wines offered by wine director Melania Battiston.
“I have understood during my wine journey that customers like to explore beyond the classic regions, especially recently as some prices have skyrocketed,” Battiston said before giving me her thoughts on which neglected areas we should be turning to. “Having lived in Greece for six months I started to really enjoy the indigenous varieties, and their unique features.” But it is in Italy that Battiston has found the underdog she roots for: “I truly believe in the potential of Italian white wines. Italy has always championed its reds, but white wine is its future”.
Is this the time for the Davids of wine to take down the Goliaths?
It would be hard to imagine a wine more relegated to unfashionable depths than Lambrusco – I can practically feel the shudders of some at even reading the word. Thanks to an influx of cheap, sweet, badly made fizz in the 1970s, Lambrusco’s reputation has been in tatters for decades. Yet a recent tasting hosted by Ray O’Connor MW at The Intercontinental was buzzing with excited industry faces. The winemakers were all remarkably young, well-travelled and, having trained in great wineries across the world, confident of what was needed to make world class wines. “The younger generation is repping it,” said O’Connor. “And look at the trends right now. Sparkling is on the rise, pink wine is on the rise, lower alcohol options are increasingly popular”. Lambrusco, in a range of shades from palest onion skin pink to deep cherry red, sparkling and mostly around 11 per cent ticks all the boxes.
It is also traditionally dry. The sickly sweet versions of the 1970s were created for the export market but now “even the USA have learned to drink it dry,” says one of the Italian winemakers. As a dry effervescent red they pair beautifully with charcuterie in the lighter style and with slow-cooked pork and meaty ragus in the richer style.
Personally, I think it is going to be ideal with my Christmas cheeseboard this year and I look forward to my family’s faces when I reveal what they are drinking. It seems every dog has its day and right now it is Lambrusco’s.
Naked Wine of the Week
Julian Faulkner Sparkling Rose, £16.99
NAKED WINES Angel Price £14.99 (see how below)
A bit of a rarity, this wine is worth celebrating! For those who love a pink drink, this is a pale, dry Provence rosé but made as a sparkling wine. Peachy, spritzy, with fine vibrant bubbles and hints of wild strawberries, this is a crowd pleasingly joyful bottle that hits the mark for party season. Delicious as an aperitif, this is going to go well with canapes, smoked salmon and even a cheese course.
Wine Recommendations
Journey’s End ‘The Engineer’ Shiraz 2018 £29.99
Majestic
An utterly fabulous wine from South Africa, where some of the world’s best Shiraz is grown. This is a cut above, with all the enticing notes of violet petals, rich dark berry fruits and spice you would expect but with an added hint of sweet caramel and plush velvety tannins making it a wine to sink into.
Boutinot, Les Six, Cairanne AOC £16
N.D John Wine Merchants
What unbelievably good value! A Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Counoise, Carignan Noir blend from Southern Rhone this is a rich, complex, full-bodied and generous red wine that retains a youthful freshness even through the robust flavour. Looks and tastes twice the price.
Flint Vineyard Charmat Rosé 2023 £24.99
Grape Britannia
This was the UK’s first Charmat method sparkling wine I believe and therefore a bit of a rebellious game changer for the industry. This latest vintage, just released, is a bold bright almost neon pink in the glass and delivers a vibrant smash of strawberries and red currents in
the mouth. Party time!
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