Why South African wine is the GOAT
South African wine is eternally exciting. It’s a country bursting with maverick winemakers, swaggering onto the wine scene with innovative ideas, original designs and their treasure trove of old vines – a forgotten leftover from the country’s brandy making days.
The once blend-relegated Cinsault is now gaining popularity as a refreshing, rustic, red-fruited easy-quaffer from minimal-intervention winemakers. Pinotage, that most marmite of grapes, has lost its toffee-coffee rubberiness and been reborn as something far more elegant, fresh and floral. Cabernet Sauvignon is being lauded in Stellenbosch.
Syrah and Viognier seem to avoid the heavy handedness sometimes found in warm climates to create plush, silky wines. Chenin Blanc is still the most planted, a gift of a grape that can slide from crisp and light to richly barrel-fermented to sweet or sparkling.
Cap Classique, South Africa’s traditional method sparkling, is the fastest growing style and offers award-winningly well-made fizz at ridiculously low prices. Graham Beck is a popular choice in the UK and for good reason – it always falls well below £20 a bottle. I shouldn’t call favourites in my job, but odds are if it is on the menu, I shall be picking a bottle of South African wine.
Though dedicated South African restaurants and wine bars are slimmer pickings over here, there are a couple that do the wines justice.
Vivat Bacchus
The Farringdon branch, with its bottle room and tastings, was where I first fell in love with wine, 20 or so years ago, so it holds a special place in my memory. Recently lunching at London Bridge my love was revived.
The meal started with a glass of glorious Cap Classique and a visit by the Biltong trolley. Biltong, a form of dried meat (often game), is almost a religion in South Africa. Here hanging chunks, spiced or smoky, are carved into slices alongside little pots of droëwors, a jerky-esque dried sausage. The generous Braai boards come piled with meat for twice as many people as seated and are artistically lit by beef dripping candles. Expect lean ostrich fillet, Coca-Cola cooked pork belly, earthy boerewors sausage and succulent steak. Remind yourself of vegetables afterwards because here the carnivore is king.
Wash it all down with rich Chenin Blancs by “the King of Chenin” Ken Forrester and dusky Cabernet Sauvignons from the Cape. Desserts must not be ignored either: try the traditional malva pudding with custard or the peppermint crisp tart, a beautiful concoction “just like grandma used to make”. If there is space, discover the cheese room experience and stay for a final Amarula… then don’t eat for a week.
High Timber
It sits like a secret on the edge of the river Thames, with tables inside and out boasting one of the best views in the city – especially if you can convince them to give you their “illegal” table (nudge nudge, wink wink). Like many loyal locals I have been a fan for years, but this South African riverside institution still seems to take people by surprise.
Biltong croquettes, Roobois tea smoked salmon, and a choice of steaks served with charred baby gem lettuce and Isle of Wight tomatoes. Finish with a Dom Pedro, best described as an adult milkshake with Amarula or Kahlua and linger as the sun sets over the Millenium bridge, the Globe and the Tate Modern.
Their wine room is glorious, showcasing the best South African wines available from many of my favourite producers. It is definitely worth taking a tour around, particularly with owner Neleen Strauss who knows each winemaker personally and has many stories to tell… In winter there is a cosy cellar room for private dining but while the sun shines the terrace is the place to be.
South Africa provides wines at such a range of styles and prices, there really is something for everyone. Whether indulging in Ken Forrester’s premium Dirty Little Secret Five made from Chenin Blanc vines aged over 65 years old (£99.50, greatwine.co.uk) or sipping the slips-right-down fruity First Cape Special Cuvée Chardonnay Pinot Noir Rosé (£7, Tesco) these wines rarely disappoint.