A pilgrimage to Simon Rogan’s L’Enclume in Cartmel, Cumbria
Simon Rogan’s famous L’Enclume changed the face of the sleepy Cumbria village of Cartmel. We sent Justine Gosling on a culinary pilgrimage to one of the world’s top restaurants.
Where is Cartmel?
The tiny village of Cartmel, population 300, isn’t your average village. Nestled on the edge of the Lake District and widely considered as one of Cumbria’s prettiest, it draws people from around the world for its quaintness, summer horse racing and its world-renowned dining. It’s a gourmet destination, home to two Michelin starred restaurants and its famous, locally produced sticky toffee pudding.
Surrounded by lush countryside and close to Morecambe Bay, it’s a haven for walkers and food lovers alike. Despite its small size, Cartmel boasts a vibrant atmosphere with boutique shops, artisan producers and traditional pubs.
Tell me about L’Enclume!
Chef Simon Rogan MBE is one of the pioneers of the farm-to-table movement and in 2002 opened his debut restaurant, L’Enclume, in a former blacksmith’s workshop in Cartmel, which focuses on hyperlocal and seasonal ingredients.
The restaurant currently holds three Michelin stars, one of only nine in the country with the accolade, as well as a green star. Highlights of the 15-course tasting menu include the lovage-fritter with Duroc-pig and smoked eel; beetroot tartlets; Orkney scallops with pumpkin and truffle; and delicate vegetable-centric creations, accompanied by superb wines, including many English options.
Hang around for lunch the following day. Around the corner, Simon opened Rogan & Co in 2008, his second venture in Cartmel, which won its first Michelin star in 2018. Less formal, three-course lunches are served after delicious, bite sized pre-meal snacks such as a Parkhouse cheese scone with pickled allium cream, or a zingy shot of sweet tomato water. I’d recommend the main of 24-hour-slow-braised Dexter beef cheek, the best mouthful of beef I’ve ever had. Be sure to save space for petit fours.
And when you’re not eating?
To save the drive home after dinner, L’Enclume has 16 bedrooms, which are spread around the historic village. Every room is no more than a couple of minutes’ walk to either restaurant, and, if you want to be very lazy, everything you need for the weekend is within a couple of minutes’ walk.
Characterful rooms in quaint cottages feature exposed beams; beds are strewn with a mountain of cosy cushions and there’s a helpful guide to the highlights and hiking routes.
The huge bathtubs are the perfect retreat if, like us, you were caught in a downpour whilst hiking. Breakfast is at Rogan & Co for the fanciest fry-up and crispiest hash browns you’ll ever have, as well as hot and squidgy cinnamon pastries and other delectable options to start your day.
Don’t forget…
… Your hiking boots and raincoat – the lakes are regularly ‘topped up’. Also, after breakfast, make some time for a tour of Simon’s Our Farm in Cartmel Valley, just a mile from Cartmel. You can even walk there.
All of Simon’s UK restaurants hold a farm-to-table philosophy at their core, with a focus on the ingredients grown at Our Farm. During the tour you’ll spot much of the produce that ends up on your plate. The hour-long tour of the 11-acre farm with Head Farmer Adam Frickel is fascinating.
Adam will tell you about his highly organized operation in idyllic surrounds to ensure that Simon’s five restaurants receive vegetables, herbs, fruits and flowers, year-round, whilst closely studying the seasons, soil and sunlight to ensure growing methods never stand still.
If coerced, he may even tell you about the spats between chefs at the different restaurants fighting over the available lovage for that day’s menu.
• Rooms are available from £280. To book a stay – or indeed a meal – visit the website here