Is The Killingworth Castle the best gastropub in the Cotswolds?
- Where: The Killingworth Castle, The Cotswolds, Oxfordshire
- Drive from london: 1.5-2 hours
- Train from Paddington to Hanborough: 1 hour plus a 15 minute cab ride
In these times of global turmoil, the humble British staycation holds more allure than ever, and you would be hard-pressed to find a better, more accessible option than The Killingworth Castle in the Cotswolds.
This outrageously handsome 17th century inn and stables is one of those places that’s so old it would scramble the brain of your average American. It pre-dates the execution of Charles I, the great fire of London and the enlightenment. When Thomas Killingworth served his first pint of ale here, Galileo was under house arrest for daring to suggest the earth might orbit the sun and Sir Isaac Newton hadn’t even been born. Mull that over while you enjoy a pint or two of the local lager.
Today The Killingworth Castle – or ‘The Killy’ to its mates – is best known as a gastropub. And not just any gastropub: it’s the 37th best gastropub in the land according to The Top 50 Gastropubs. It’s quite the turnaround from the sorry state the property was in when owners Jim and Claire Alexander took it over in 2012.
Check in for an overnight stay in the Cotswolds
I checked in on a brisk spring morning and was immediately struck by the carefully manicured gardens, which wrap around the main building into a beer garden and would be something close to paradise on a summer afternoon. Inside, a fire roars while Jim pulls pints at the bar. The pub alone is almost worth the 90-minute drive from London but it’s the restaurant that pulls in punters from across the country. This is largely thanks to head chef Rob Mason, who trained at The Cricketers in Clavering for Jamie Oliver’s dad and went on to gain experience at Michelin and AA decorated venues including Hampton Manor and The Cottage in the Woods in Malvern.
Book in for an evening meal and you can expect a compact menu of modern British dishes. I had an excellent sliced scallop in a cider beurre blanc, a massive portion of chicken liver parfait with toasted brioche, a pitch-perfect plate of lamb saddle and, the pick of the bunch, a superlative roasted chicken breast with barley risotto, morels and asparagus. I’ve eaten in at least a dozen of the gastropubs ahead of The Killingworth Castle on the Top 50 list and on another day it could have placed far higher.
After all of that – washed down with a very nice dry riesling – the last thing you want to do is drive back to London. Thanks to the converted stables next door, you don’t have to. Here you will find eight idiosyncratic little rooms, all with exposed sections of brick and ancient beams and four poster beds. Look beyond the mod-cons and you could be back in the 17th-century, taking a break on a torturously-long journey from Aberystwyth to London.
Overnight stays come with another Killingworth special: a damn fine breakfast. Load up on the full English and you’ll be set for a day exploring the Cotswolds.
What else is there to do near The Killingworth Castle?
From The Killingworth Castle you can take a leisurely stroll through the historic village of Wootton, which will take you all of 15 minutes; we’re deep into the Cotswolds here. A short drive (or a swift bus-ride for public transport enthusiasts) will take you to the relative metropolis of Woodstock, where, in 1969, some 400,000 people rocked out to Santana, Janis Joplin and The Who. Just kidding: as far as I know Jimi Hendrix never visited the Cotswolds, but the OG Woodstock was home to another iconic figure Winston Churchill.
Blenheim Palace, where Churchill was born and close to where he’s buried, is a stunning stately home, considered one of the finest in the country, and its vast grounds and lavish house will comfortably occupy an entire day. Woodstock itself is also a wonderful place to spend an evening, too, filled with cosy little pubs and spectacular, wisteria-covered old buildings. This is the weekend escape that lives in your mind’s eye; highly recommended.
• Go to the website here for more information
The standard room rate is from £169 per night; Prices for an overnight stay, tasting menu and full English start from £316.75 per room (based on two sharing)l; For two nights with one tasting menu and two breakfasts, prices are from £460.40 per room (based on two sharing).
Book before the end of April to get 25% off your first night or stay for two nights and also get 40% off your second night, including a Full English breakfast each morning, and a tasting menu for two people on one of the evenings