Why ‘ABC’ should stand for ‘Always buy Chardonnay’
The tide is thankfully turning for the most versatile but maligned grape, Chardonnay. Anyone involved in wine cannot help but wince when someone says they are “ABC” (“Anything But Chardonnay”) because the chances are they like it without even knowing. I have one very good friend who would turn her nose up at any glass of Chardonnay, saying she couldn’t stand the stuff, until she revealed her wedding wine was White Burgundy. This is one of the most respected and expensive wines in the world… and it is also Chardonnay.
The myth that all Chardonnays are overblown, buttery fists of oak comes from the fashion many years ago for a bigger style of wine, especially in the New World (looking at you, Australia and California). With the increased demand for powerful Chardonnay, certain producers started to use oak staves, or wood chips, rather than the more time-consuming barrel aging. Corners were cut to keep up with demand and a lot of cheap, headache-inducing wines hit the market, denting Chardonnay’s reputation.
But this is a beautiful grape, and we all owe it a whole heap of love and gratitude. It is one of the three main grapes in Champagne and the only grape in a Blanc de Blancs Champagne. It encompasses the world-renowned – though now ruinously expensive – White Burgundy, including its various other appellations Chablis, Pouilly-Fuissé and Macon.
Chardonnay is a beautiful grape, and we all owe it a whole heap of love and gratitude
The main thing to note is that Chardonnay is highly influenced by where it is grown and what the winemaker chooses to do with it. Warmer regions will tend to have more stone fruits, from peaches to tropical mango, whereas cooler areas will display more green apple and flint.
Use of oak can broaden the wine and give it notes of vanilla – these wines often undergo a process called ‘malolactic fermentation,’ which is what gives wines a creamier, buttery feel. And lees contact (those dead yeast cells that, when alive, create the alcohol) can bring a toasty nuttiness to the wines. Basically, Chardonnay covers a whole spectrum: it can be still or sparkling, crisp or buttery, lean or round and it is grown all over the world.
If you like your wines linear and cool then Chablis is a good choice as this region rarely uses oak and they are frequently lighter bodied, with notes of citrus, green apple, stone and spring blossom. Wines from France’s Côte d’Or and Macon are more opulent, while still often retaining an elegant freshness and fine balance. The Côte d’Or is home to some of the most expensive examples in the world, but some value can still be found, even if on the higher end of the scale, such as the gorgeous struck-match and ripe fruits of Domaine Gérard Thomas Saint-Aubin 1er Cru 22 (£36.99, Waitrose). The Macon yields even more value for money: a recognisable name in wine, Louis Jadot Mâcon-Villages 2022 is currently on offer making it an absolute steal for such enjoyable drinking (£13.50, Waitrose). Another area to stock up on is Margaret River in Australia, where the New World really can give France a run for its money. I flew over to judge their wines last year and was blown away by the premium taste and skill of their Chardonnays.
For those who enjoy a richer, more sumptuous style, I love South African wines for their dedicated winemaking and sunshine-warmed fruit. A fabulous choice is Babylonstoren’s Chardonnay 2023: both powerful and sleek (it comes in a charming bottle with each label numbered by hand) this is my ultimate food white wine, holding its own with a steak as well as complimenting creamy pasta and sushi (£25, Wanderlust Wine).
England also does wonders with this grape. Oastbrook’s 2022 won gold at the GB Awards, before promptly selling out. And I will always have a soft spot for Balfour’s Skye’s Chardonnay, a wine that made me sit up and take notice the first time I tried a sip. It was the first wine I recommended in my column at CityAM and remains a firm favourite (£25, Balfour). Ideal for toasting International Chardonnay Day next week (21 May).
Wine of the week
Langham Wine Estate ‘Search for Enlightenment’ Chardonnay 2022, £23.95, LanghamWine.co.uk
One of the England’s most admired producers, Langham usually only makes sparkling wines. Its Chardonnay from 2022, however, was so exceptional it decided to make a small batch (only 1143 bottles) of this excellent still white. Perfectly balanced and developing beautifully in the glass, this is another class act putting English wine on the map. Snap it up while
you can!