Henri in Covent Garden by Jackson Boxer is City A.M,’s London restaurant opening of the week
CityAM’s new London restaurant opening of the week is Henri in Covent Garden
WHAT’S THE DEAL WITH HENRI?
This Covent Garden opening unites one of the most exciting bar groups and one of the most exciting chefs. The Experimental Group — behind the Experimental Cocktail Club bars in London, Paris and beyond — are on the drinks and Jackson Boxer’s in the kitchen. He’s the chef behind Brunswick House in Wandsworth, Orasay in Notting Hill and his own self-titled place in Selfridges. He started working in kitchens aged 16 and now aged 39, he’s one of the capital’s most trusted, and celebrated, kitchen-dwellers.
WHO IS THE CROWD?
Design types, architects and Covent Garden workers looking to escape the tourists will go here. Within the Henrietta Hotel, the design is helmed by Dorothee Meilichzon, a bit of a hospitality design legend who has given her touch to over 100 properties internationally. Expect to overhear formidable conversations, but it’s not going to get too fancy and you can leave the pressed shirts at home: press material says that as well as being “glamorous and playful,” the restaurant is inspired by British pub culture.
WHAT TO ORDER?
Boxer touts a dish “for every mood,” all inspired by a best of British produce approach. That said, the menu will twist Parisian classics in homage to The Experimental Group’s roots. Grilled snails with green garlic and veal rice, artichoke with boiled egg and anchovy, cod with crab bisque and lime and half a roast chicken with turnips and murels all line the preview menu. For dessert, we’re ordering the grand marnier souffle with frozen almond.
Drinks-wise, everything’s named after French icons and everything contains ingredients we’ve never heard of, as you’d hope for from a bar-restaurant that specialises in experimental cocktails. The Marie Antoine comprises Vulson Domaine Des Hautes Glaces (a special type of whisky), rye, ginger syrup, honey-infused lapsing soughing tea, lemon juice and peach bitters. All the more reason to test them to find out what they taste like if you can’t make head nor tail of the menu. There are rare, banging wines too, and a stonking list of non-alcoholic drinks for those veering away from the sauce.
WHO TO TAKE?
As much as it claims to be inspired by a pub, the Henrietta Hotel is a classy establishment. If you fancy sinking pints, choose somewhere else. You request will inevitably be met by a confused French waiter who’ll politely describe that they only do bottles in here. Take someone you’re looking to impress, but not, like, really impress. Then you should go to Claridge’s.
Read more: Five cocktails to celebrate the Olympics and their host city Paris
WHEN TO GO?
We’ve found the Henrietta Hotel is great during the week when a scattering of fab local workers and international guests who are interested in design populate the intimate restaurant. Avoid early week as it can be quiet. We reckon this has got Thursday night written all over it.
WHAT’S NEARBY?
The Experimental Group’s relatively new nightlife venue STEREO is around the corner on the Covent Garden piazza. Its more a place to throw a few shapes than sit and have a conversation, but if you’re looking to up the energy it’s a good spot. Otherwise you’re in the heart of Covent Garden so knock yourself out: Frenchie, Flat Iron and Cafe Murano are all minutes away on foot. For a pub we love The Porterhouse on Maiden Lane, or if you’re out for a celebration, the American Bar at The Savoy is only a few minutes’ walk away across the Strand.
THE DETAILS
14 – 15 Henrietta St, Covent Garden, London WC2E 8QH; henriettahotel.com/eat