The Italian job: My favourite places in London to gorge on pasta
The greatest restaurateur of my generation was Russell Norman, the founder of both Polpo and Brutto. Exuding charm and charisma, he immediately lit up a room; shining brighter than most Hollywood A-listers. Omnipresent at his Smithfield restaurant Brutto, he would recognise every guest by name, carefully choosing where to seat each to ensure everyone enjoyed the perfect dining experience.
I loved dining with Russell, an expert in Italian cuisine, and experiencing his recommendations for food and drink in Florence, Venice and London. With his unparalleled influence in mind, here are my picks for the capital’s top Italian restaurants, which I recommend for a beautiful meal this Valentine’s weekend…
As a starter (or prima), Margot in Holborn has been around for almost a decade and exudes romance, while Sartoria Saville Row is one of the finest Italians in Mayfair (their double-sized veal Milanese to share with a Sicilian Planeta Menfi chardonnay (£122) sets a benchmark!).
PINNA
Elsewhere in Mayfair, I dined with another exceptional restaurateur, George Bukhov-Weinstein – co-owner of Goodman, Beast and the brilliant Wild Tavern in Chelsea (amongst other venues) – at Pinna, his new venture on Curzon Street.
Pinna has opened quietly, but is already on the visit lists of those in the know. Bringing the best of Sardinia to London whilst respecting and sourcing British ingredients, Sicilian born chef Achille Pinna has an outstanding reputation – well warranted if judging by the blue fin tuna tartar, a Cornish seabass ceviche with melon and tigers milk, oxtail tortello and an unforgettable paccheri with zucchini, sea urchin and mazara.
The wine list is also a delight, ranging from accessible to some sublimely indulgent Super Tuscans. We opted for the latter – thanks George! I highly recommend both the Condrieu by Culleron (£130) or a little 2010 Sassicaia (£900).
BRUTTO
Brutto continues to demonstrate the legacy of Normans’ genius. Their £5 negroni at the New York-influenced counter bar, dog-friendly and ‘singles’ policies, and fabulous menu of Florentine fare means it remains a haven of hospitality.
I visited with YGT founder and man about town (so long as it’s Smithfield or The Devonshire), Andrew Harding last week to indulge in our monthly penne with vodka and tomato fix, and to share their signature Tuscan beef shin stew. When washed down with a bottle of Saten 20 Mosnel Franciacorta (£130, the Ruinart of Italy) and some golf chat, the perfect lunch is completed.
BOCCONCINO
Sister restaurant to new opening Osteria del Mare; Bocconcino comes highly recommended. I visited the Soho location after seeing Jason Manford at The Palladium (to support Teenage Cancer Trust) on Friday. You will note I have eaten far too much pasta in the past week, as a sacrifice to this fair column. Each Friday night they offer live music and DJs, which is rather fun.
Tartare di tonno with tuna sauce was a nice play on vitello tonnato, while yellowtail tartare with orange essence and white soy was divine. Perhaps it was the comprehensive cocktail list, but my wife also loved the (‘over-egged’ in my opinion) carbonara and told me I don’t know what I am talking about, being ‘a northern peasant who grew up on creamy sauces’; you, too, can visit to celebrate marital harmony!
BANCONE
With ex Ramsay chef Ben Waugh leading the kitchen, Bancone is by far the best ‘counter-style’ pasta place in town. The imitators have failed to beat Bancone’s sublime silk handkerchiefs, or their bucatini cacio e pepe. This visit, I also ‘stuffed’ my own midriff with the taste sensation that is a Cornish crab cappellacci with corn and sea herbs, and washed it down with one of my very favourite Italian whites, a Pomino Bianco Frescobaldi Chardonnay, which is exceptional value at £59. My friend Jason Myers and founder Will Ellner are celebrating their sixth year of being awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand this week and it is most deserved! Watch out for Myers and his partner David Ramsey’s new Tottenham Court Road rooftop opening this summer (you heard it here first)…
MICHELIN IN THE CITY
Etoiles Michelin were gifted at a glittering ceremony in Glasgow on Monday. In the Square Mile you can indulge in one-starred splendour at Angler in South Place Hotel, Galvin La Chapelle, Club Gascon and St. Barts. Awarded two stars in the City we now have La Dame de Pic at the Four Seasons (although this is set to close soon) or you can jump on an Uber bike in your gilets to The Clove Club in Shoreditch, or to Tom Sellers’ excellent Story and Jonny Lake and Isa Bal’s Trivet, both in Southwark. For three stars, it’s still a cab to Mayfair or Notting Hill.
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